Travelogues: Fall 2004

November 14, 2004, marks the one month of my arrival to Armenia. In a short amount of time I have had my senses shocked, my heart touched, my inspiration lifted, as well as destroyed and even lifted over again. Every emotion you feel in Armenia is real. Every person you meet is real, and every hand you hold and every pair of eyes you look into has seen more history, more loss and more beauty than you could ever imagine.


Perhaps when I arrived to Armenia, I arrived with rose colored glasses. I don't think so, but being in the experience, I will give myself that doubt. But even if I did, the reality has settled and I am at the same conclusion. People are real here, life is real here.

This weekend 10 of us went to Kharabagh. All different ages ranging from 17 to 45. All different backgrounds, some locals from Armenia, some from Kharabagh. Some diaspora from England, some from New York, some from LA, and believe it or not one girl born in Syria, who lived in England, and now lives in Armenia. I have to say it was an experience of a lifetime. So here we are the 10 of us. Driving through the countryside for 10 hours, inching our way through the mountains (no paved roads) to Kharabagh. Pit stops are whatever trees you can find :). When we finally arrived it was night time. We made traditional barbecue and settled into the homes of our weekend host family.

I can't say it really hit me as to the meaning of Kharabagh until the morning came. We stayed with a family who lives on a farm. I experienced taking a shower outside for the first time in my life. I realized what it means to have a manual toilet (don't want to explain that one right now):) In any case, we all came together and experienced life. Life in its most basic and pure form. Where you reap what you sow, and if the winter is harsh and your chickens are not laying eggs, you may not eat the next day. Where if you want warm water, you have to heat it yourself. Where if you want to have a fire, you have to chop the wood. Responsibility, living in its basic form. No traffic, no noise. Just roosters, and donkeys, and chickens, and apple trees and the warmth of love, kindness and hospitality. Where people help one another, because otherwise survival would not be possible.

By the time we reached the main church of Kharabagh, it was quiet, and all that was left was this sense of wonder, sense of astonishment and sheer awe. The presence of God, who has created this world in all its agony and ecstasy. For the first time in my life, standing before God, I was brought to tears. The tears just rolled. I cried for myself, I cried for my friends, I cried for my family, I cried for the people living in Armenia, I cried for everyone in the world who is hungry or hurt or experiencing obstacles in their lives, and I cried for all those who do not know what obstacles really are.

By the time we entered Yerevan, 3 days, 10 tree pitstops, 2 barbecue stops, (and 3 vomit stops later), we were a family – bonded together forever by our experiences. Now I am back in Yerevan. Obviously not really what we could consider "city life" but "city life" nevertheless. Everything is relative I guess. I am back to writing my articles for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and I am back to working with the kids in the after school program, and I am back to the basic charitable functions that I am responsible for through the Armenian Volunteer Corps. But I will always carry Kharabagh and its people with me in my heart. I will always remember what it looks like when a land has been destroyed by hate and war and I will always remember the beauty of faces that have seen real life.

Tina Serebrakian (USA),
AVC volunteer and BR/DH participant

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