Travelogues: spring 2006

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Before coming to Armenia, I wondered, among many other things, what Armenia’s churches would be like. Would communion taste any different? Would the Badarak sound or look different? And how about the incense – would it smell different? Having the Armenian-Church-going experience under my belt now, I can confirm that these things are indeed the same as they are in America.


It is indubitably one of the most wonderful things about the Armenian Church that its traditions are upheld nearly identically around the world. It is a constant, a rock, a “home base” that Armenians can return to to reconnect with God as well as their ancestral past. But to say that there are no differences between the churches of the motherland and those of the Diaspora is false.

Singing with the choir at Zoravor Armenian Apostolic Church in Yerevan proved to me that no matter how grand our Armenian churches back home in America are, no matter how charismatic our priests, and no matter how beautiful the voice in our choirs, experiencing and being apart of the Divine Liturgy in a church in Armenia is something else. In all honestly, it is nothing less than surreal to be worshipping and praying in a stone structure like the many ancient churches and monasteries in the Armenian countryside. Zoravor is by no means an architectural wonder; it is a small, traditionally built church, seemingly out of place in the urban streets of Yerevan with its large and imposing, dark and scarcely decorated stone walls. There is just something about the traditional Armenian stone masonry found in these churches that explains why this has been the architectural style of choice for the construction of our places of worship for centuries. In their simplistic design, there is a sense of peace and protection, in their monumental size, a sense of strength and perseverance, in their dark color a sense of antiquity and authenticity. They speak both to the Armenian historical past and spirit but also the Armenian vision of the divine. We touch and kiss the stone walls, we kneel down and prostrate ourselves on the stone floors; the stones do not just form the backdrop of the church experience, they are an integral part of the worship. That I have an impulse to lay my hands on the stone walls of all the monasteries and churches we have thus far visited had made it clear to me that I am indeed one of these “stone people.” Perhaps it is the feeling that the Holy Spirit can safely live within these stone walls, or perhaps it is the idea that stone is ever-lasting and transcendent of time and space or maybe it is the knowledge of how old such structures really are and that in worship, one is upholding a continuity in faith between the past and the present that has remained unbroken in Armenia. Whatever it is, that our churches back home lack this stone masonry is undeniably a shame!

What I have always loved about our Armenian Church is the warmth with which people are greeted and the kindness with which they are treated. Zoravor was no exception. The priests, deacons, choir members and even the parishioners accepted us unhesitatingly. For the deacon to have met with us, personally introduced us to the entire clergy, and toured us around the church, for the choir leader to have allowed us to join her exceptional group of singers without any question as to how we would sound, and for the female parishioners to have lent us their veils so we could receive communion was all so heart-warming. Zoravor really did feel like a community of worshippers, a group of loving, caring, and faithful Christians eager to share in the divine spirit as one. Watching the parishioners from the choir balcony, crowded into every possible nook and cranny of the church, solemnly crossing themselves and bowing their heads, singing and praying along with us, taking the communion and kissing the Bible en masse, and standing during the entire service in true Orthodox style, I realized how important a role the Armenian church plays in the lives of the people in Armenia. This wasn’t just a run of the mill Sunday excursion for the people in attendance; no one seemed to be there drudgingly or forcibly. The feeling in the air was so solemn and necessary that things seemed like a matter of life and death; the suffering and desperation were palpable and real; people were not just praying for the rest of the world, as I often do back home, but for themselves and for their neighbors. The church seemed to be their true life-blood and I felt so blessed to be able to sing for them, to be part of something so important to them, to join their community of faith and love for Jesus Christ. It was unforgettable.

Sona Bekmezian (USA),
AAA volunteer and BR/DH participant

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