I knew from the start that my host family was going to be great. They have the same last name as my grandmother before she was married. We decided right away that we were "family" and it's been wonderful ever since. Arman, my "papa" speaks a little English and he's very eager to help me with my Armenian. Ashkhanie, my "mama" knows no English, and I'm actually glad. I am forced to use whatever rudimentary Armenian I am equipped with to communicate, and it's helping me learn. She is patient with my mistakes and happily corrects me. My sisters, Nelli (5) and Nina (1 1/2) and the cutest Armenian children I've ever seen. They love to dance and warmed up to me very quickly. Nothing beats blasting Armenchik and dancing around the living room.

My Armenian family is good about giving me space when I need it and cheering me up during other times. Last night, we were watching tv--which is crazy here. Armenian tv is either news, music videos, or bad soap operas. Russian tv is interesting, to say the least. They have something like Candid Camera, but most of the gags involve women with no tops on.

They also love to feed me, and the food is fantastic. No preservatives in anything here. We buy veggies and fruit from little old ladies on the street. So much for my "go to Armenia and lose weight before my wedding" plan. But I can't complain. The tomatoes (which I NEVER ate in the US) are a staple here, and I've learned to enjoy them. And I'd swear that the lavash is a gift from the gods themselves.

It's been cool and sunny almost every day. To get to work, I take the marshrutka (a mini-bus that packs as many people as possible in and will stop anywhere to let people on or off--crazy!). Minibuses cost 100 dram per trip. You can't beat a 30-cent ride to work.

If I'm lucky enough to get a seat and be by a window, the view is interesting. It's quintessential Gyumri. In the distance, there are some incredibly beautiful mountains, and a clear blue sky like nothing I've seen. But lining the street is a mix of crumbling Soviet-era building and new Armenian construction. For those of you who don't know, Gyumri was hit very hard during the 1988 earthquake. The town is still recovering, and there's evidence of that all over the city. When I first got here, in fact, the disrepair was all I could focus on. I kept thinking--18 years!! How could they not have fixed more than this! There are times when we have no running water at work, and the power goes out sporadically here. Internet access isn't a given, either. There are still piles of rubble where buildings used to stand, and more stray animals that you can count. There are still people wholive in a shanty-town that was supposed to be temporary housing after the 'quake.

On a more personal note, my Armenian papa lost his father and two sisters in the quake and my mama's mother lost one of her legs after being trapped for five days under rubble. Everyone I've met so far has lost someone in the quake.

But the longer I stay her, the less destruction I notice. In fact, it's just the opposite. I see growth and hope, and, as "cheesy" as it sounds, the promise of something new. The resilience of these people is tremendous. And by far, they are the kindest, most genuine people I have ever come across. Just yesterday, a woman on the marshuka started talking with me and when I got off at my stop, she paid my fare. And the people in the stores are eager to help me with my speaking skills (especially after I tell them that I'm American Armenian). And they are rebuilding so much here. There's a school for artistically gifted children that's being renovated, and more and more private donations are coming in.

Tomorrow, we travel to the beautiful region of . . . Lori!! Very fitting, of course...

Lori Wagoner (USA)
AVC Volunteer and BR/DH participant