This last weekend was one of the most interesting yet. We travelled to Nagorno-Karabagh or Artsakh to Armenians. Artsa k h which translates into "mountains and woods" is just that. The landscape, mostly unfettered by the hand of man is a wonderous one. My experience in Shushi was one of ups and downs. This village, once home to about 50,000 people of varying ethnicities has become a monoethnic one of a mere 2000. The laughter and enthusiasm of Shushi's children is a sharp contrast to the war-torn rubble found on every street, by every home, in many of the people's hearts.

The Armenian offensive on Shushi was a difficult one. It was a completely uphill battle. As the main force struggled up the main roads, a smaller unit of about 50 men ascended the gigantic gorge at the back of the town. The Azeris fled and the war was almost over.

The director of the program I am with was a journalist during the war and experienced firsthand the realities of the war. As gunfire would erupt around them, the village children would pride themselves in telling her the gun they were fired from. These children, instead of telling stories about school or the games they played knew the effective range of an AK-47.

The children now are overwhelming. First with their smiles as they chase down the bus, then with their incessant requests for gifts. As we pass around the candies and chocolate, we make sure to tell the little ones t o properly dispose of the trash. I meet one little guy named Mihran who takes me to the very top of the mosque we are visiting. He is fearless like his ancestors. He is only eleven years old but his eyes say he is much older.

The Kef allows me to experience a true village party. I experience the music, the dancing, the food, the vodka, and most importantly, the people. These people, these Armenian people who have been through so much, know what it means to live. Material goods mean little here. What's mine is my neighbour's and what's my neighbour's is mine. These villagers display a true sense of Armenian pride, a sense that seems to be lost to the people of Yerevan. They have spilt blood for their land and lost some of those dearest to them. In their loss however, they seem to have found life.

I went to mass on Sunday morning in a beautiful newly renovated church in the town. It was an entirely serene and peaceful experience. We ended off the trip with a meeting with the president of the republic. He expressed his people's love for the land for which they had spilt so much blood. The future of the region remains uncertain and I cannot envision any sort of solution to the situation there. The people will not give up their land. Azerbaijan will not recognize it as independent or as part of Armenia. Armenia cannot fully utilize its r esources until international recognition of the region occurs. War could potentially break again at any time despite a 10-year cease fire.

Alex Kolanjian (USA),
AVC volunteer and BR/DH participant