Impressions of Gyumri

After spending a month in Yerevan, a month in Vanadzor, and nearly a full month in Gyumri, I’ve grown an informed opinion on the delights and downfalls of all three of Birthright’s headquarters. When my time as a volunteer with Birthright Armenia comes to a close, my Gyumri experience will certainly stand out in an overwhelmingly positive way.

First Impressions of Gyumri

I had some previous experience with Gyumri, so I didn’t come without expectations. Not only had I visited in 2018 briefly, but I also spent time in Gyumri on a previous excursion when I was based in Yerevan. Perhaps my favorite impression both then and now remains the beauty of the architecture. Gorgeous buildings are something modern architects refuse to embrace, opting for the most ugly brutalist designs. Armenian tuff stone adds color to the city. Even the black basalt tuff stands as a bright contrast to the blocky gray designs which saturate my home city of D.C. and other major western cities. The city’s signature black and red tuff buildings make it an iconic city to get lost in.

Every city has its monuments or local spectacles. For the major tourist attractions of Gyumri, such as the Black Fortress, Mother Armenia, Ponchik-Monchik, and other common tourist destinations, I feel they are left for us to explore on our own time. What makes the Havaks special is we are shown people and places which the average tourist — and many locals — know nothing about. I appreciate the time spent finding such hole-in-the wall gems making all our Havaks engaging and unique.

Unlike Yerevan, Gyumri isn’t too fast moving and densely packed. Nor is it too quiet like Vandazor. Gyumri is a wonderful balance of the two, and it should be advertised as such. The size of the group is large enough to always have a friend, but not so large that I cannot grow close to everyone. Group activities such as Havaks, forums, or CSPs are wonderful bonding experiences. After virtually every event, there is always a group meet up where we laugh, sing, reminisce, about our time in Armenia.

Unlike Vanadzor or Yerevan, there is something special when all volunteers are placed in the same area. Ani District is a tight-knit neighborhood. Although it is a fair distance from most job sites and the city center, there is a unique joy traveling to and from work together. When in a homestay in Yerevan or Vanadzor, I felt very comfortable bragging to my hosts that they were the best in their city. But now, I feel the need to be careful about what I say since they’re all so closely connected. It’s easy for gossip to spread which may inadvertently put down other host families if you aren’t careful with your compliments. Thankfully, I haven’t experienced any such social tragedies, and I have no intention of initiating one while I stay here.

Despite my intentions, I feel safe to say it here: I believe I have the best host family in Gyumri. My host mother is so experienced at hosting, everything she does is spotless. Her house is always in order. Meals are never late. And a smile is always on her face. A great testament to her phenomenal maternal nature is her children. All three of her children are an absolute delight. They all treat me with love and respect, being a clear reflection of their parents. That leaves me with my host father. I’m in constant awe at his selfless humility. Despite incurring so much misfortune from the earthquake, he is a hard worker and constantly remarks that he is the luckiest man in the world. I feel it is a deep honor to be not only allowed under their roof, but to be accepted as one of the family. My sincere hope is I would never be unworthy to receive such love from this role-model of a family.

So it is with great regret that I state the worst thing about Gyumri. Without question, it is the shadow of the 1988 earthquake. In my whole report, one can feel this dark specter is ever-present. The reason for such beautiful buildings is they needed to be rebuilt after the disaster. Ani district only exists because of the earthquake. The reason for the character of the Gyumri’s residents (from their humor to their love for one another) is because of the earthquake. So much of the Gyumri psyche was shaken by this tragedy. Even people born after the earthquake still must wrestle with its consequences. But from Birthright’s perspective, this should be seen as more than a tragedy, but an opportunity to better engage the diaspora.

Resilience of the Gyumri People

It is a testimony to the Armenian people that despite many tragedies, we can still dance, sing, feast, and live beautiful lives. Gyumri perhaps represents that contrast most vividly out of all cities in Armenia. The world must come to Gyumri and see for themselves the strength of the Armenian people. By receiving help from the people of Gyumri, Gyumri will show volunteers their own strength.

Out of the hundreds of volunteers in Gyumri, I’m one of the very few who will ever experience both Sona and Marine as directors for the Gyumri program. Both of them demonstrate remarkably positive attitude under intense pressure. They work hard to make our experiences positive and beneficial for all volunteers. In addition to our beloved Khachik, they also stand as excellent archetypes for the persona volunteers should expect in Gyumri. All of them are honest, friendly, willing to listen, and totally dedicated to giving volunteers an authentic experience in Gyumri.

Gyumri will be the only city I intend on spending two consecutive months together during my time volunteering in Armenia. I feel no matter how much time I spend here, it will never be enough. There always will be a new adventure here or a new place to see. Not all volunteers are suited for the rural quiet life of Vanadzor. But no volunteer should spend their stay stuck in Yerevan. Gyumri is a must-be stop for every Birthright volunteer. As our current director often says “butterflies are flying.”