Volunteering with Birthright Armenia As Spiritual Journey

The very fabric of Armenia is weaved with the Christian faith. To volunteer and live in Armenia, is to have an encounter of faith. Be it a tour of an ancient Church, walking by an ornate cross-stone (called a Khatchar), or simply experiencing the warmth and hospitality of a population whom nearly all identify as Christian — spirituality is baked into the cake of any Armenian experience. One of my goals as a Birthright Armenia volunteer was to understand the Christian culture of Armenia and integrate that into my overall experience. Of course, volunteers who aren’t Christian or even religious still have an incredible time. Experiencing religion in Armenia is not like getting hit by a tsunami, but like a fish surrounded by water, one doesn’t notice unless they observe. I not only chose to be aware, but I wanted to see how deep I could swim.

The Depth of Armenian Christian Culture

It is impossible to understand Armenia without understanding the connection between the Armenian culture and the Armenian faith. Many know it as the first Chrsitan nation, but its Chrisitan heritage goes far deeper. Countless Catholici, Khatchar-carvers, saints, martyrs, theologians, architects, monks, bishops, scholars, royalty, musicians, psalmists, and warriors driven by the Armenian Apostolic faith made Armenia what it is today. Three generations of Sovietization; centuries of Islamic oppression; persecution from pagans, Zoroastrians, and even other Christian sects could not extinguish the Armenian flame of faith. But what does all this history mean for someone volunteering today? What does it even mean to have a spiritual experience? How can someone with little or no religious experiences have one in Armenia? Will that experience be positive or negative?

I’m no religious authority in either the Armenian Apostolic Church nor your personal life. All I can do is share my experience during the six months I lived and volunteered in Armenia. I stayed with five different host families and attended an Armenian Apostolic Church nearly every week. Additionally, I visited countless different Churches, monastic complexes, and Christian monuments, both active and abandoned. I also visited the blessing of the Holy Muron oil, a ceremony conducted by the Church about every seven years. I also was present at the reopening of the Mother Cathedral, Ejmiatsin, which was a ceremony that may not occur again for several centuries.

The most important myth to dismiss is your geographic location or time does not make you more spiritual. The Christian tradition teaches God is omnipresent — meaning He is present everywhere. However, your awareness of His presence is subjective. Despite that, to stand in the pit which held St. Gregory the Illuminator, to kneel beside the grave of a famous saint, or simply to sit in an ancient Church makes one more conscious of the presence of faith in God. To have a spiritual experience is an intensely personal affair. I would hesitate to call it good or bad. Very often, a spiritual experience may convict someone of their own shortcomings or wrongdoings, and this could lead to either useless guilt or a sincere desire to improve. But in most cases, a spiritual experience will fill you with a deep sense of awe and peace. That may be a good or bad thing, it depends on what you do after the experience.

The Role of Religion in Armenian Identity

Most families in Armenia were not regular Church-goers. They all certainly had strong opinions on certain members of the clergy and all had some religious-themed decorations in the home. For the Armenians, religion is one of the ways they rebelled against their oppressors. With so little control over the surrounding powers who seek to dominate Armenia militarily, politically, or economically, their ancient faith provides a real anchor which both preserves the Armenian identity and is respected by Christians across the globe. Indeed, the oldest institution in Armenia is the Church. By the Armenian Church we have the Armenian language. There is no question that without the Armenian Church, there would be no Armenia to this day.

Volunteering is very much a time of testing. Even if you aren’t religious, you will be put into situations which test your faith — regardless of what you believe in (or lack thereof). Be it getting lost and needing to find your way home, moments of confusion with translation, difficulties with relationships, times of testing are inevitable. By putting yourself into a new and unfamiliar environment, you are making yourself vulnerable. Depending on how severe the trial, more will be revealed about ourselves. I don’t encourage anyone to seek pain and hardship, but I do encourage everyone to seek an adventure. In Armenia, you can have an adventure everyday if you try. During your adventures, take times of quiet to meditate on the big questions. What are you doing here? Not just volunteering in Armenia, but on earth? Am I doing what is right? Do I know what it means to love others? Is there a God? If there is, what does that mean for me and what should I do about it?

During my volunteering, there were countless instances of me experiencing love from others. But I’ll share one anecdote in which I experienced the love of God. Near Vanadzor, there is a small Church on a mountain called St. John’s chapel (or Sourb Hovannes). The top is absolutely covered with beautiful and unique Khatchars. When I came, it was pouring rain. Although it’s typically quite crowded, the rain and late hour made most people clear out. I decided to lean against a large Khatchar to shield myself from the rain. Hardly ever in my life can I recall a moment where I felt more at peace. To be protected by the elements against that stone cross and to gaze into the misty valley below made me feel still in time. There were no anxieties, wantings, or fears. As wonderful as that experience felt, it only is a better experience if the version of me who descends back down is a better person. How will you know your volunteering experience in Armenia was good or bad? The questions will be answered after you descend yourself from your own mountain.